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CONCLUSIONS I WORLD RIOJA WINE FORUM III
MILLENNIUM
First of all, we must mention the great
success of this I World Rioja Wine Forum, whose aim has been to
put forward a series of high-interest matters for discussion by
top-ranking speakers and round tables highly specialised in the
areas in question. Participation has been fully open to all concerned
in order to get their reactions and draw up the following conclusions.
FIRST
CONCLUSION
With regard
to the production of black grapes, the fact that the berry is small
is important for quality
in that there is a greater percentage of skin over pulp.
The skin of the grape contains the quality
potential of the wine. In particular, it contains the polyphenols
which become evident in the wine through good vinification.
According to Mr. Fregoni, when dealing
with black grape varieties, the correct choice of soil-climate ecosystem
is of great importance due to the fact that the daily minimum-maximum
temperature variations are fundamental for the grape to express
the typical aromas of each variety and the polyphenols.
Consequently, we must look for the vine
to be capable of directly giving us a must which, with immediate
vinification, produces high-quality wine.
Human factors are also important in maintaining
adequate balance between the top part of the vine and the roots.
It is a very old rule in winemaking,
and one that is generally accepted, that low vine production is
essential for obtaining quality products. Consequently, our interest
lies in a plantation density that is sufficient for the plant not
to be excessively vigorous and for it to meet competition in the
plantation.
The concern for the grape to be
more valuable in relation to quality in its broadest sense is a
very interesting
concept and constitutes the best stimulus for the winegrower to
obtain the best results.
SECOND
CONCLUSION
With regard
to oenology, Mr. Feuillat emphasised the importance of marc maceration
and current techniques used to activate the process, as well as
the beneficial effect of cask malolactic fermentation for reducing
or eliminating the taste of vanilla.
In the region of Burgundy, with low lighting
and temperatures due to it being the northern-most black grape area
in Europe, the thermovinification system is applied to obtain a
fuller extraction of the polyphenols and to destroy the lactase,
which is caused by botrytis.
In more southern black grape plantations,
such as the region of La Rioja, this procedure is not applied.
Mr. Feuillat recommends cold pre-maceration
of the grape for three or four days at a temperature of 12 to 15
degrees in an inert atmosphere of nitrogen in order to stimulate
the growth of yeast, which will later have a very beneficial effect
on the formation of aromas. After
this short period, the grape should be heated to a maximum temperature
of 28-30 degrees for it to finish fermenting in the usual way. The
study of the effect of oak wood in the ageing process of red wine,
depending on the characteristics of the oak, was also found to be
of great interest.
THIRD
CONCLUSION
As programmed,
there was a round table on the differentiation of the price of black
grape in accord with
different quality factors. Profitability and positioning of wines
on the market as a result of said factors.
The discussion and the different points
of view put forward during the round table were of great interest
and thoroughly up to date.
All the speakers highlighted the relevance
of the interest being shown in polyphenols as a determining factor
in the quality of the grape, without detriment to the importance
of the maturing process in the wealth of natural sugars, fixed acidity,
pH level and health of the raceme.
The debate ended with the table underlining
the importance of polyphenols in the grape, although we are still
in the initial stages of the development of this area at a practical
level. There is a general agreement on valuation criteria, but sufficiently
quick and precise systems are as yet unavailable in the winery for
determining not only the amount of polyphenols, but also their ultimate
capacity for polymerisation.
Several members of the table insisted on the importance of clones
within each variety due to the fact that they behave in a different
way. Each clone has its own metabolism, which involves a different
polyphenol formation.
Calcareous-clayey soils are preferred
to quaternary alluvial soil with regard to the formation of polyphenols.
The direct examination of the vineyard
and the vines is essential for defining the implicit quality of
the grape and should be completed with an examination of the harvest.
There was also unanimous agreement
that vines of between 15 and 25 years produce the best quality due
to the fact that the plant is less vigorous and has a better balance
between its roots and top part.
It is clear that quality has a cost in
that it involves a reduction in the yield and an increase in the
work on the crop, which is dependent on the results being duly appreciated
by the consumer.
FOURTH
CONCLUSION
In his conference
on a view of the renovation of the statute for vines, wine and market
balance, Mr. Goicoechea pointed out the opportunity of this wine
forum at a crossroads or changing point at national, EU and international
levels. The possible and rapid expansion of the EU from its current
15 member states to 21, the effect of the GATT
agreements in international trade, the possible agreements between
the European Union and MERCOSUR and South Africa, and the new OCM,
together with the urgent need for replacing our old 1970 statute
for vines, wine and alcohol are of the greatest importance at economic
and legislative levels.
With the opening of the interior market
and the globalisation of the international market, improving the
competitiveness of Spanish wine is of prime importance.
Whatever the case, let us not turn our
concerns towards an invasion of American or South African wines
because distance always imposes the barrier resulting from transport
and related costs. The finer details of the new OCM are as yet unknown,
but the possible limitation of chaptalisation, which under the current
regime is contrary to the very essence of wine and involves serious
competition at price level, is being considered.
All those present expressed their
disagreement with the principles set forth in the 1994 OCM, which
were very detrimental to the Spanish winegrowing sector.
FIFTH
CONCLUSION
The conference
on the renovation of the statute with regard to the policy on quality,
Mr. Antonio Moscoso gave an analysis of the public and private functions
of the regulating councils
and the advisability of their complying with the requirements set
forth in the EN 45011 European standard regarding the requisites
to be fulfilled by certification and control bodies.
Mr. Moscoso was in favour of giving regulating
councils their own legal personality and the status of a corporation
governed by public law.
The round table dedicated to the new
legislation for the winegrowing sector, with a wide selection of
outstanding experts in Brussels, local governments, individuals
and sector representatives, began a debate on the varied subjects
regarding the modification of the statute.
Firstly, it was agreed to uphold the
fight against chaptalisation, which should be replaced by enrichment
with rectified concentrated must.
Opinions regarding the regulating councils
were varied.
The leading opinion was that regulating
councils should have their own legal personality, an absolute capacity
for carrying out their purposes and status as a body governed by
public law, without prejudice to the governments particular
responsibilities, such as the recognition and approval of the regulations
governing geographical names, or to its corresponding private functions.
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